Temari Mystery Ball Archives

Temari Mystery Ball Archives
Previous Mystery Balls are still available if you missed out and wish to give them a try.
When you are ready to see a sampling of how others had them turn out - click over to the Mystery Ball Archive, Sample Photos

January 2005 Mystery Ball

One of the most important things that the Mystery Ball does is reinforce and "test" your use of the Temari Glossary....so keep that in mind. Prep a mari, your choice of size though I'd recommend something in the 2 1/2 to 3 inch diameter range. Divide mari into vertical sections, either 8, 10 or 12, your choice, with obi. Place a marking pin halfway between obi and poles on division line. Work one round of kiku on each pole, with the top of the kiku starting close to the pole and the bottom points being placed at the marking pins. Work a full round of kiku around on each pole.

Work diamonds on the obi as follows: choose a division line as a starting place. Using the lines immediately to the right and left as side points, and the kiku bottom points as the top and bottom of the diamonds, stitch one round of a diamond shape. The diamond will top and bottom points should overlap into the kiku points enough to being interweaving the shapes. Move one division line to the right or left and repeat, and from now on not only will each diamond top and bottom point interweave with the kiku bottom points, but the left and right side points will begin to interweave with the diamonds on either side of the one you are working on. Contiune around the obi until you have stitched one round of each diamond.

Return to the poles and stitch another round of kiku on each, continuing the interweaving process of the points and shapes. Then, stitch another round on each diamond. Continuing alternating rounds on each to interweave the pattern. Work as many total rows as you like to develop the depth of the design. Embellish as desired, and you are finished.

September 2004 Mystery Ball / Advanced Beginner to Intermediate / Inspired by a photo from Sue Hayashi

Prep a mari with regular thread wrap and divide to a simple 8 (you actually could do a 6, 10 or 12 - your choice but it has to be an even number (the sample these verbals are from is done on an 8) - mark the divisions, pin but don't mark the obi. With the north pole facing you, place marking pins half way plus a smidge (tiny smidge) from pole to obi on alternate lines. With the south pole facing you, repeat using the other alternate lines. Remove obi pins but NOT the marking pins you have just placed (that now zig zag around the middle of the ball). Both hemispheres will look the same except the half-way pins are on alternate lines and zigzag around the middle of the ball. Pick a pole and call it north. You should have pins closer to the north pole on half of the lines and pins closer to the south pole on the other half of the lines .
Using kiku stitch, being stitching 1/8th inch from the north pole on a line where the marking pin is up towards that pole. You will be stitching an elongated kiku using the pins you have placed so - you will go down to a pin close to the south pole for the bottom of the stitch, back to the north pole, then to a pin (by the south pole), back to the north pole, down to a pin, back to the north pole, down to a pin. Repeat this sequence around to your starting point. On the other set of lines stitch a short kiku - north pole to pin (close to the north pole) to north pole to pin etc. Reverse the ball and stitch the same sequence around the opposite hemisphere. Keep repeating the rounds, alternating hemispheres and sets of lines - you will be forming regular kiku around the poles and interwoven points at the pins. You will also notice the pattern begins filling in nicely - repeat until the interwoven points reach the bottom of your kiku stitches forming from the poles.

September 2003 Mystery Ball / Contributed by Susan Cameron, Atlanta Georgia

       This mystery ball is easy yet gives quite an impressive appearance when completed. It will also introduce you to or give you the challenge of adding additional marking lines to create an interwoven design. Prepare a 3 inch mari wrapped in the color of your choice. You will use five different colors to stitch the pattern, so you can choose accordingly to coordinate or clash! Mark the ball is a simple/vertical four division with an obi. You will not see the marking threads after the design is completed (hopefully) so you don't need to use a "good" thread to mark with. Locate the distance between the north pole and the obi (this distance is the same from any point to any point given that it is a simple four with obi ball), and divide it into thirds. Place a pin on each mark line one third of the distance from pole to obi. You will have four pins forming the corners of a square around the pole point. Stitch an extra marking line to create this square around the pole point. Do this on each of the six pole points.   Hold the ball with a pole pointing to your nose. Notice that each of the new squares also form irregular hexagons, every other side of the hexagon being formed by a square and the alternate sides by the original marking lines. The stitching pattern will use the hexagons and the squares. Choose one of your design colors and stitch the outside outline of a hexagon (stitch on the outer side of the marking lines, away from the center of the hexagon, as working IN toward the center of the squares). Locate the hexagon directly opposite on the other side of the ball and stitch this hexagon with the same color. Repeat with each pair of opposite hexagons, each pair being stitched in a different color. Your threads will begin to overlap and cross each other on the original marking lines.
       With the fifth color of your choice, stitch the outline of each square that you laid down with the extra marking lines. Stitch on the outside of the square, away from the center pole. The stitches at each corner of a square will be placed in between the threads of the two adjacent hexagons you just outlined previously.
       This completes the stitching cycle that you will repeat to complete the ball (again, you can email for a photo hint of this step being completed if you need it). Work a round on each hexagon in the appropriate color and then a round on each square. The hexagons will fill in toward the center of the squares, eventually filling the squares. The points of the corners of the squares will work toward each other along the original marking lines. You will probably finish the hexagons and fill the squares before the corners meet; this is normal, just work extra rounds on the squares to meet the corners. The ball is complete other than any embellishing you would like, perhaps a round of metallic around each square; or some fill design in the hexagons - or nothing at all. When complete you should see a woven design in the center of each square, similar to a quilt block pattern that seems to "float" in the square. This interpretation was inspired by the Japanese Temari book "Hometown Temari", ISBN750-900003-2012

May 2003 Mystery Ball / Contributed by Diane B./ Richmond VA

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into a simple 32 with obi. Do marking lines and obi with thin metallic or other thin thread, even just plain sewing thread.

Hold the ball with the North Pole at the top. Mark 4 adjacent lines with pins 3/8 to 1/2 inch (depending on the size of your ball) above the obi. On the next four lines to the right, mark them 1/2 the way from pole to obi. On the next four lines to the right, mark them 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the obi - the same as the first 4 lines. Then mark the next 4 lines 1/2 way from pole to obi. Continue around the ball. You should have 4 sets of 4 lines marked 1/2 way alternating with 4 sets of 4 lines marked 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the obi.
You are now going to stitch a zigzag pattern. The first round is done with regular perle cotton. Start with a regular herringbone stitch at the rightmost pin in a set of 4 that are close to the obi. Go up to the rightmost 1/2 way pin in the set of 4 to the right of where you started. At the 1/2 way pins, you will be stitching a kiku stitch. Zig down to the rightmost pin in the next set of 4 and stitch. Zag up to the rightmost pin in the next set of 4 and stitch. Continue until you get back to your starting point. Start another zigzag pattern at the pin to the left of your starting pin and stitch to the left of your previous round. Continue until you have stitched 4 zigzag rounds. Stitch the next round with a metallic thread. Remember to do the kiku stitch at the 1/2 way pins and just a v-shaped herringbone at the pins close to the obi. On a 3-inch ball, you should be able to fit in 4rounds, first round is perle cotton, next is metallic, third is perle cotton and the last is metallic. Of course, feel free to change the rounds as desired. These are just suggestions. Stitch the same pattern on the southern hemisphere - holding the ball so that the South Pole is now at the top. Carefully clip the marking threads that are associated with the kiku stitch (the 1/2 way markings) at the obi. Bury these threads so that they cannot be seen. You should now have 4 empty spaces between the kiku stitches around the ball. Fill these spaces with a pine needle stitch or spray, as desired. Finish the ball by putting on a wrapped obi (it will go over the sprays) and embellish the obi as desired.

Mystery Ball March 2002 (Beginner) / contributed by Pat W. of California USA

You can use a small ball, 2.5 inches, for this or whatever size you choose. Wrap, divide, and mark with metallic thread for simple 4 (NP, SP, and 4 equally spaced intersections around the equator). What you have now is a ball with marking threads meeting at 6 equally spaced 4-part intersections.

Use either floss (undivided, twist maintained) or pearl cotton. Measure ahead to decide how many wraps to put around the ball--- what you want is 3 rows stitched on each side of the marking thread on each circumference of the ball; you will have 3 actual bands going around it, 6 threads wide with the marking thread in the middle. The bands will cross each other at each of the 6 intersections.

Use keeper pins alongside to keep threads lying next to the metallic marking thread and not slipping off the ball. Wrap snugly but not tightly; keep it even and smooth. Go back the first band you wrapped [it is the one underneath all the others] and using a second color wrap another 1-2 rows alongside the first. Then go to the SECOND band and do the same, then the third. Depending on how big the mari is, and how wide your bands are, add rows with placing colors as you choose. Then add a row of metallic around the outside edge of the bands if desired. You will need to use keeper pins all along the edges to keep the threads lying in place, as the ball gets smaller as you stitch outward from the widest circumference and the threads will tend to slip off if not held by the pins as you go along. Trying to hold all the threads by hand is an exercise in futility!
Be sure to hide all beginnings and endings under stitching and cut off neatly and invisibly.
Next, do a 2, 3, or 4 row square in one or more of the original colors around each intersection, taking care to put the herringbone stitch far enough away from the edge of the band to not pinch it, and evenly spaced between the bands; this should also keep its points and square shape. When all the buckles are on, the keeper pins are no longer needed. Add a similar row of metallic. Embellish the ball as desired.....

Mystery Temari, August 2001 (Accomplished beginner to intermediate) submitted by Diane B of VA, USA

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into simple eighths. Mark lines and obi with metallic or other decorative thread.

Mark every other line halfway from obi to pole. Stitch a square or diamond going from obi to halfway pin (above obi) back to obi to halfway pin (below obi) and back to where you started. Stitch 4 of these squares around the obi. The place on the obi where the corners of the squares come together will be the center of your design.
With the metallic thread, at the center of each design, stitch a "spray" with short lines (about 1/2 inch from the center) between each long line. The long lines are already on the ball and will be the marker line running N to S, the obi lines on each side of the center and the sides of the squares whose corners meet at the obi.
You will be stitching an eight-pointed star using the kiku stitch around each of the centers as described above. There will be four stars around the ball. On the long lines, place pattern pins 1/2 inch from the end of the line. On the N-S line, the ends are at each pole. On the obi, the two ends are at the next marker line. On the sides of the squares, the ends are at the halfway pins.
Start your star at the pin on the N-S line closest to the S pole. Come up to the left of the pin as usual. Take your thread towards the center and stitch as close to the center as you can on the adjacent "spray" line. Go away from the center and stitch at the pattern pin on the side of the square under and to the right of the center. Go toward the center and stitch at the next "spray" line as close to the center as possible. Continue stitching in this manner and using the kiku stitch for the second and subsequent rounds until the points of the stars touch the end of the lines (as described above). On a 3-inch ball, this should take around 7 rounds. Be sure to "stretch" your points; that is, place your stitches on the outside points of the stars about 1/8 apart. Embellish the N and S poles and between the stars as desired. Part of the mystery will be your choice of colors and embellishments.

Some had difficulty with this pundit - so the following hints were offered: In the directions for the mystery ball, it was not clear to me that the "square" is part of the marking lines, so it should be done in the same metallic as your dividing lines. In the vernacular of the craft, they would be called Support Lines. I also had a difficult time understanding what a "spray" was, and exactly "where" I was to be stitching it. Not sure if I should give advice on it, as any "errors" could create some very lovely designs... but not necessarily the intended pattern. (and isn't that part of the fun of a mystery ball?)... still, if you don't get it right, then the rest of the directions make little sense. With that in mind, consider the "spray" as part of your Support Line network that you are laying down prior to beginning to stitch the actual pattern. Each "spray" is an additional criss-cross of lines that evenly subdivide the spaces between the intersections of the N-S marking line - obi - and 2 sides of opposing squares (or as the pattern states - the "new" centers).

May 2001 Mystery Ball (Accomplished Beginner) Courtesy of Diane B., Virginia, USA

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into simple 24ths. Mark lines and obi with metallic or other decorative thread. Place pattern pins starting 1 cm from obi (north and south) and continue up each line placing a pin at a 1 cm interval. You should be able to get 5 - 6 pins from obi to pole on a 3-inch ball. If more pins are desired, use 1/4 inch between the pins (or any regular measurement).
Place "keeper pins" at each intersection of the marker lines with the obi. Keeper pins are pins placed close together at each spot to hold or keep threads in place. First round: start your stitch at one of the pattern pins right above the obi, take your thread down through the set of keeper pins to the right of where you started and stitch at the pattern pin below the obi on the next marker line. You will be stitching on every other marker line with thread going between keeper pins on the marker lines that are not stitched. Stop this round when you get back to where you started.
Second round: same as the first, except now you are stitching on the "other" lines where you have not stitched the first round and the thread is going between the "other" keeper pins. Third round: use same marker lines as the first round but now stitch at the second pin up or down from the obi. You can take the first pins out if desired. Subsequent rounds: keep alternating and then moving up a pin. For the obi, use one to three wraps of thread (either metallic or plain) above and below the obi to wrap and encircle the thread between the keeper pins to keep it in place.
Part of the mystery will be your choice of colors for each of the rounds and this will be what makes the ball special.

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into simple twelfths. Mark lines with metallic or other decorative thread. Marking the obi with the same thread is optional. Suggested rounds below are for a 3-inch ball. For a 4-inch ball, you may need more rounds. Place pattern pins on alternate lines at 1/2 the distance from the obi to pole. That is, you will have 6 pins above the obi and 6 pins (on the same lines) below the obi.You will be stitching a diamond pattern. Start your stitch (regular herringbone) about 1/8 inch to the left of one of the pattern pins. Proceed down to obi to next line (without a pattern pin) to the left and stitch about 1/8 inch above the pin marking the obi. Go back up to the next line to the left and stitch about 1/8 inch to the right of the pattern pin on that line. Go up to the pole and stitch 1/8 inch below the pole. Go back to the pin where you started. You should have a diamond. Do about 3 rounds stitching “outside” the previous diamond but putting your thread close to the previously stitched diamond. After the third round you should be close or on top of the marking lines. End your stitch where you began. Stitch 6 diamonds above the obi (they will be centered at the North Pole) and 6 below (centered at the South Pole).
On the lines without pattern pins, wrap thread (like an obi wrap) all the way around the ball - the wrap will be on top of the diamonds and will go through the middle of the diamonds. Four rounds for each wrap should be sufficient. There will be three wraps. Wrap and embellish obi as desired. Possible embellishments include a random wrap of thin metallic thread (like sewing thread) on the ball before starting so that the ball has a “crackled” appearance. You could also use three colors for the diamonds and wraps – matching the wraps to the diamond color. Part of the mystery is your color and decoration choices.

Wind any size ball in any colour and mark it as either a C8 or a C10. The choice is yours. You will find a triangle on either ball, inside of which you stitch another triangle starting halfway between the centre and the outer points. Keep your line of stitching parrallel with the marking lines. Stitch a triangle in each of the triangles around the ball in 1 row of any colour. Then, if you are working a C8 ball, stitch a square around each pole linking the 4 triangle points around that pole. If you are working a C10 ball it will be a pentagon around each pole, again keeping the lines of stitching parrallel with the marking lines. . Stitch 1 row of any colour. Build up in alternate layers of traingle and squares/pentagons until you cover the ball completely. The colours you use are entirely up to you. This should produce a great diversity of balls from participants and also produces a good example of how much
variety you can get from one basic pattern. Sample results (yours may be much different):

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into simple sixteenths. The wrap should be in a dark color, black is ideal. Mark both lines and obi with metallic or other decorative thread. Place pattern pins on lines at 1/2 the distance from the obi to pole. Beginning at the north pole, work kiku/chrysanthemum stitches on first set of alternate lines, starting at the pole to pattern pins (keep start of kiku as close to the poles as possible) using your choice of colors of thread and number of rounds. The bottom of the kiku should stop far enough from the obi to allow for some decoration about the obi, if desired. You will have 8 petals. On the second set of lines, work the kiku using thread that matches the ball wrap. The second kiku should go under the left side of the “V” of the first kiku petal and over the right side of the kiku petal. Stitch the second kiku (the one in the same color as the ball) using only about one-third to one-half of the number of rounds of the first kiku. The bottom of the second kiku will not extend as far as the first kiku. Decorate the obi as desired. Part of the mystery is “what children’s toy does this design resemble?” Sample results (yours may be much different!)

Prepare a three to four inch ball with standard thread wrap, and divide into simple eighths or sixteenths (your choice, the design will work with either one). Mark both lines and obi with metallic or other decorative thread.Beginning at the north pole, work kiku/chrysanthemum stitches on alternate lines, going from pole to obi (keep start of kiku as close to the poles as possible). On the opposite pole work the design on the opposite alternate lines. Bottoms of kiku stitches will meet at the obi - how they do is up to you and part of the mystery. You may have the points intrelock, overlap, or interweave. The number of rounds, number/distribution of colors used in the kiku stitching, and finishing embellishments is likewise your choice and part of the mystery.
Sample results (yours may be much different!)