Info about Kimono

着物－その基礎知識
courtesy of Sue H.

There are many different names for what we westerners call kimono. A formal garment worn by a man or woman, usually made of silk is called a kimono (key-moh-noh).

An informal one, usually in cotton, with an indigo-blue and white design is called a yukata. (you-kah-tah)... you will often see young girls in the summer with pink, white and red flowered designs on their yukata... the kind that Blair wore at the ryokan is a yukata for relaxing in and sleeping.

There are short cotton ones with usually the kanji character for "festival" or "celebration" on the back - these are called hapi coat (hoppy - coat).

There are also thin ones, haori (ha-oh-ree), that are used as under-garments for a more formal kimono, or under a wedding kimono. Wedding kimono are usually heavy brocades in white, red, and orange - often with large cranes depicted.

Square-necked kimono in heavy silk or moray are worn as an outer jacket like the michiuki (me-chee-you-key) depicted on the kyotokimono.com site.

The fabric for a kimono is make in straight strips of varying lengths (two for the back, three for the front, one for each sleeve, and one for the collar) that are hand-sewn together with a tiny basting-like stitch. The hand sewing is important so that it can easily be taken apart for cleaning, then re-sewn.

When wearing a kimono, do not make the mistake of crossing the right side OVER the left... A kimono crosses like a man's shirt, with the left side over the right. To wear a kimono crossed in the opposite manner indicates that the wearer is dead.

Yukata used for relaxing or sleeping, or a hapi coat is not secured with the traditional obi, but a more informal strip of fabric that may be tied in the front. However, when wearing any other kind of formal kimono, it is secured with several strips of fabric at the hips and mid-chest, draping a fold of the kimono over the hip-cord, and a formal obi over the upper cord. Never tie an obi in the front - or you will give the impression that you are a prostitute.

A formal kimono will be rather long when you first put it on. You adjust the length from the bottom and work up to the hips. Use the excess fabric to form the drape of fabric over the hip cord as mentioned above. Then adjust the upper collar and neck area and secure with the mid-chest cord. The collar should sit back on the shoulders allowing 4-fingers width between the nape of the neck and the collar.

Obi are tied in many ways - the height and elaborateness of the obi knot indicate everything from a woman's age, to her marital status, whether she has children, or where she comes from - not to mention what is currently fashionable. Sleeve lengths provide similar information - long sleeves that nearly touch the ground are for young unmarried women. Shorter sleeves are for older married ladies. A sleeve can be used as a purse to carry things.

An obi, when fastened correctly, will feel a lot like a corset - very tight, and limiting of movement. If you have a dramatic difference between your hip and waist measurement or chest and hip measurement, you may need to add "padding" to your waist to help your obi maintain it's proper parallel lines. The over-all shape of a person wearing a kimono is straight up and down.

The first thing you will notice when wearing a kimono is that you cannot walk too quickly, or the front will flap open - you will find yourself forced to take small shuffling steps to keep your modesty in check. You will notice you cannot easily bend from the waist - great for improving your posture, and bowing properly from the hips. It is difficult to sit in a chair while wearing an obi, as it will crush and misalign the back knot.... hence, learning to sit in the Japanese style on the floor, with your legs tucked under takes on a lot more appeal.

Also, when nature calls, you will find that using a western toilet nearly impossible, where as the desire for the Japanese style, that is flush on the floor again holds new meaning.

The polyester wash-and-wear kimono that most foreign tourists purchase to use for bathrobes are only found in touristy shops... Japanese would never wear such an item "for real".

Antique, or vintage kimono and obi are often purchased, taken apart, and re-made into a variety of craft and clothing items - such as vests, evening jackets, purses, etc.

You can also purchase new rolls of un-cut kimono or yukata fabric - but be forewarned, most are only about a half-meter in width (about 18 - 22 inches) therefore, you may need to piece together some of the wider western designs.

Final note... black kimono are for formal events and funerals, white kimono are for the bride at a wedding. If the black kimono has a small floral design surrounded by a circle either in the center back near the neck, or on the front "lapel" areas, the flower design is a "family crest"... such a kimono would be worn by a male. Don't forget the "instant obi" - this is an obi that is secured with small fabric strips, and the pre-tied bow hooks on the back and tied to the body with fabric strips.... great invention for the modern woman who has little or no experience in tying her own obi!

Sue H.