Not long ago a question arose on the list about what bunka thread was and if people had used it - and liked it. Bunka thread is a traditional fiber used in Bunka embroidery - which is a type of punch needle embroidery done in Japan. The thread or yarn however has found uses in other needlework anbd crafting techniques. Both Bunka thread and embroidery are older tradtionals in Japan... and bunka thread found its way into temari applications long enough ago that bunka is a traditional fiber for temari in Japan - second only to silk. Indeed  - original bunka was silk and it still can be gotten, though most bunka now is rayon. The rayon version is much more affordable, and has a terrific sheen. Bunka also comes in metalllics, both solid metallics and as an "ombre"  - a blend of a color with a metallic vein included. 

        To use bunka thread, it is "unchained". Bunka comes as a chained yarn - usually in hanks but it can also be gotten wound on cardbobbins depending on the source. The most common example of what bunka is like is to think of a tassel on a graduation mortarboard - that real slinky chained cord - that is rayon bunka (though here in the US when used like that it is usually called "chainette", and it also is sold as fringe or tassels under that name). Whether your bunka is originally in a hank or on a bobbin, you cut off a length and work the end loose, then pull - and it unchains itself very much like when you used to open a bag of potatoes or onions that were in the heavy paper bags and "sewn" closed at the top. Among some of the vintage bunka I've acquired was this diagram

that shows the chaining orientation and how it "unchains". Ideally for stitching you want the "2/4" state - where there is still one chain step left intact -and this is the most common way that the cord unravels when you pull it. It gives a very nice gauge for stitching. If you do go down to the final 1/4 stage which is one thread with no chain it is finer - rather too fine for stitching for most people but, it does work well for marking division lines.

        Obviously, when you unchain bunka you get a much longer thread that what you cut off the source - usually three to four times as much. So - don't underestimate the cost effectiveness if you purchase bunka - it may seem more expensive in the beginning but that hank or bobbin is going to go a much much longer way than it looks.  Unchained, bunka would be about equivalent to a Pearl 8 thread - thinner than the "traditional" Pearl 5 but, since it has been kinked up in that chain, it retains a unique appearance and texture after it is unraveled. I have not seen silk bunka, but I use a lot of the rayon - and the colors and sheen are wonderful. It can be difficult to find in the US - but there are some sources (see the Supplies page). The outcome is wonderful - there is a subtle texture to the finished temari because of the thread texture.

        Intact bunka, unchained, makes the most wonderful tassel for the bottom of the temari - it is a very slinky cord, with a beautiful drape (remember those graduation tassels).

We had a chat on the list about using bunka - here are some notes from it

You don't separate it, you "unchain" or "uncrochet" it. It is essentially a rayon crocheted chain. Intact, it makes lovely drapey tassels. To stitch with it, best results are with it unchained. Find the end that wants to unravel and just pull it gently. The thread will be a bit kinky or crinkled; so dampen it slightly and "iron" it smooth with your fingers before stitching. I never use more than a yard at a time (unchained). This stuff has lovely bright colors but they are prone to fading, so the finished mari should not be kept in a highly lit spot. The "tourist shop" temari I have and have seen are almost all done in bright almost neon color combinations, very eyecatching  Lacis is a good source. .......Pat

Grab an end and keep fiddling with it util it pulls (like unravelling crochet) it will come out as a long kinky strand-llightly wet the strand before using (spray bottle) and it will straighten out. Martine in Al-


Be careful how you pull it.  When it is stretched it should look like a chain.  This may sound strange, but if you can pull it again, you have it pulled right.  If it is extremely skinny and it can't be pulled again, it is pulled wrong.  As i pull, i wrap it around a piece of cardboard to keep it taunt so it doesn't tangle. Good luck.
Carolyn Mcd

Bunka suggestions go along with my experience.  I did learn that a small piece of wet sponge helps to smooth the thread.     I purchased my thread
through Nichi Bei Bussan in Northern California....Harriet